A Cake with a Rich History (and a History of Being Rich)

Although the history of the cassata siciliana goes back a millennium to the Arab domination of Sicily, there is no evidence regarding its adoption as an Easter treat. Perhaps it was cloistered nuns, who had a virtual monopoly on the production of cassatas during the 16th century, who felt that the ideal way to break the Lenten fast was with a concoction that trumpeted indulgence.

With its pastel dressing, the cassata reflects the Sicilian penchant for intricate decoration. It also mirrors the island’s historic mosaic, and its episodes of Roman, Arab, Norman, French and Spanish invaders.

The marzipan – called pasta reale, or royal dough, in Sicily – is a gift of the Arabs, as are the icing and candied fruit. The Arabs introduced sugar cane in Sicily and Spain, where sponge cake, another cassata component, is believed to have originated.

Whereas custard and whipped cream are often used in desserts in other parts of Italy, in Sicily the predominant pastry filling is made with ricotta. Carlo Middione, chef and owner of Vivande in San Francisco, said this is probably because a ricotta-based cream does not require any cooking.

”Once the ricotta was made, it could be made into a dessert by just adding sugar and lemon rind,” he said.

Made by recooking whey, ricotta was first made by the Arabs in Sicily, said Clifford Wright, a writer and historian in Cambridge, Mass. The original cassatas, he said, were probably made in large flat pans. The shape changed during the French occupation, becoming highly decorative. The Spanish probably contributed chocolate, a New World ingredient, to the ricotta cream.

There is some controversy over what constitutes an authentic cassata. This is compounded by the fact that there are two other types besides the classic cassata siciliana: cassata al forno, made with ricotta baked in pastry crust, and cassata gelata, an ice-cream cake. Bakers who fill standard layer cakes with ricotta cream and call the result a cassata further confuse the matter.

Purists argue that the cassata siciliana must be round, with sloping sides usually no more than three inches high. It should be more ricotta cream than actual cake. But Mr. Middione said the cassata should be loaf-shaped and topped with chocolate icing. He makes this version at his restaurant.

When it comes to traditional cassatas, the main bone of contention is the presence of marzipan. Traditionalists insist that the cake be surrounded by a green band of marzipan; the opposing camp believes the marzipan makes the cassata too sweet.

Dennis Canciello, head pastry chef of Ferrara Pastry Shop in Manhattan, said the marzipan version has not been popular in the United States in the last 25 years. ”Most of the old Italians are gone,” he said, ”and the Americans found it too sweet.”

The background of a particular pastry shop’s owners also affects the style of cassata made. ”We are a traditional Neapolitan pastry shop,” said Paolo Palombo, owner of Egidio Pastry Shop in the Bronx, ”and Naples is not very big on pasta reale. If somebody does not specify, we don’t make it with pasta reale. It’s too rich.”

Salvatore Borgognone, a third-generation pasticciere in Staten Island, said the secret to a good cassata is the quality of the ricotta. Most commercial varieties, he said, are too watery to create the proper texture.

But because the cake is so rich, refrain from overindulging. ”Serve just a sliver of it with a cup of black coffee,” he said. ”It’s a classy dessert, a luxury.”

Where to Buy a Cassata Siciliana

Alba Pastry Shop, 7001 18th Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-232-2122. Without marzipan, $14.95 (serves 10) to $45 (serves 30).

Alta Pastry Shop, 2063 62d Street, Brooklyn, 718-837-4244. Without marzipan, $17 (serves 17) to $45 (serves about 35); add $5 for marzipan.

Angelo Royal Pastry Shop, 2482 86th Street, Brooklyn, 718-372-3866. With or without marzipan, $5 a pound.

Artuso Pastry Shop, 672 East 187th Street, Bronx, 212-367-2515. Without marzipan, prices start at $15 (serves 10 to 12).